MEN'S COSMETICS : Skincare market to ride on the 'metrosexual' wave

MEN'S COSMETICS : Skincare market to ride on the 'metrosexual' wave.

While many producers worry how negative factors could affect their fortunes in 2007, the makers of men's skincare items are confident their years-long winning streak will continue.

They are tipping the market for these products to double from a current Bt500 million. That is just 8.6 per cent of what women spend, said Jean Philippe Charrier, managing director of L'Oreal (Thailand) - owner of L'Oreal Men Expert.

According to ACNeilsen research, the market grew as much as 160 per cent last year. Facial foam, moisturiser and anti-ageing items are the three big sellers.

Overall, Nivea is the market leader with an 80-per-cent share, followed by L'Oreal and Biore, Charrier said.

Other players include Shiseido Men and Lab Series.

Men worry more today about their appearance, explained Beiersdorf associate marketing director Thanachai Chaikitti-vanich, and Suthidej Thakolsri, managing director of Bio Consumer. Bio entered the men's market five months ago with the CTRL brand.

Most consumers are in the 20-35 age group but are getting both younger and older.

The youngest buyers are 13 while men in their 40s are catching on.

Thanachai cited research that showed the increasing role of women in the workplace was a factor in men taking better care of their appearance.

Because women successfully manage housekeeping and careers and still manage to look good, men, particularly successful ones, are wanting to look good, too. The "metrosexual" wave has arrived.

The spending power of this group is high - between Bt300,000 to Bt330,000 a year, Suthidej said.

Men's skincare products have been around for some time with well-known brands like Nivea for Men by Beiersdorf and Biotherm by L'Oreal available in department stores.

When L'Oreal launched its men's line L'Oreal Men Expert in 2005, the market took off and started to get competitive.

New players entered with most of them expanding from women's products.

It is not only manufacturers who are enjoying the boom. The Mall Group, Emporium and Siam Paragon shopping centres are paying more attention through marketing campaigns.

With a bright future this year L'Oreal, Beiersdorf and Bio Consumer expect new companies to enter the fray. Continued cut-throat competition among the original players will continue.

Nivea will cling on to its market-leader spot with a new product line and aggressive marketing of its body lotion. L'Oreal for Men is working hard to topple Nivea in three years.

Meanwhile, new brand on the block CTRL is marketing aggressively to increase its brand awareness as it seeks to catch up with L'Oreal by the end of the year.

Retailers will be battling for customers, too. Robinson has studied the market and will embark on two campaigns featuring men's products, including skincare.

Its department stores will have dedicated men's skincare sections.

The company will elaborate on its plans in March.

Meanwhile, Zen by Central Group announced a 100-square-metre "men's grooming department" selling skincare, colognes, powders, eyeliners and other products.

The department opens next month with seven brands.

Different selling points and brand-building strategies have been employed to increase market share and sales.

Beiersdorf uses Thai celebrity Korn Narongdej to stress its products are developed for Thai men. Bio Consumer uses a Hong Kong video jockey to communicate an Asian look.

L'Oreal uses both Thai and western presenters depending on product type.

Bio will spend Bt200 million marketing its lines while Beiersdorf did not specify what proportion of its Bt300-million advertising spending would be devoted to men's products.

In terms of product, L'Oreal and Beiersdorf are emphasising their deep understanding of Thai men's complexions while Bio will push the all-in-one advantages of Intensive White 10.

"Male customers are an interesting group because they have very high brand loyalty. Once they are happy with

something they are long-term customers," Suthidej from Bio said.

He added customers do not want to spend time using lots of different products.

They prefer natural and non-greasy products. They avoid whitening lotions that produce a too-white effect.

While manufacturers are making dedicated products for men they have discovered that 75 per cent still uses skincare products directed at women.

"Many cannot find products that really serve their needs or don't know what's available right now while others don't buy skincare themselves but leave that to women in their households," Suthidej said.

That percentage leaves a lot of room for market growth and there are significant sales available to those entering the market.

Total sales could one day be as big as the Bt5.9-billion women's skincare market.

But manufacturers will have to demonstrate their ability to understand the skincare demands of today's man.

Nitida Asawanipont

The Nation
Mon, January 15, 2007