Breakfast in the park

Along with its gardens and walkways, Lumphini Park, Bangkok's green heart, also offers a tantalising selection of dishes in its food court

STORY BY KLOYKAMOL SIRIBHAKDI, PHOTOS BY YINGYONG UN-ANONGRAK

It's a typical Sunday morning on Rama IV Road and the street is clear of the choking traffic jams found here midweek. During this brief weekend respite, Bangkok no longer seems hectic; everything moves slower and pleasure is given room to bloom.

Inside the fence of Lumphini Park (often referred to as Bangkok's lung) things still feel busy, but in a lively-community rather than chaotic-city way. For decades the park has been a sanctuary where urbanites can come to recharge their batteries. Its fresh air, green gardens and leafy shade are perfect for all manner of outdoor activities.

Yet the enjoyment of Lumphini Park, or Suan Lum, is not limited to those looking to raise a sweat. The joy of eating is another pleasure pursued here. On the Rama IV side of the park, opposite the U Chu Liang Building, lies Lumphini Food Court, which has been providing food and refreshments to Suan Lum's visitors for more than 20 years now.

Exhausted joggers along with walkers and yoga, tai chi and qigong practitioners can be found refuelling themselves at this rectangular eating space. While a wide range of dishes are available, most stalls sell either Chinese food or health-oriented dishes.

Khao man kai (Hainanese-style steamed chicken and rice), khao na ped (roast duck and rice) and salapao (Chinese-style buns stuffed with minced pork) are some of the food court's best offerings, though joke (rice porridge with balls of seasoned ground pork) and kraphoh pla (Chinese fish maw soup) are also very popular.

For health-conscious diners, home-made vegetarian food, soy drinks and herb juices are also available. Visitors may also be tempted to try unfamiliar drinks such as pumpkin, pennyworth, Job's tear or black sesame seed juice.

The most popular dish for breakfast on Sunday morning appears to be the hot and fragrant khao tom (rice soup), or its brown rice equivalent, khao tom khao klong. Both are being heartily enjoyed by the more elderly crowd.

The two khao tom stalls are crowded with people picking mouthwatering side dishes to accompany their rice soup. Pla khem tom jab chai (sun-dried salted fish with boiled vegetables) and steamed tofu with seasoned minced pork are the most requested extras for those who want an old-fashioned Chinese meal. Yet steamed peanuts in clear soya sauce, fried pork with ginger, stir-fried clams with basil, hua chai po pat khai (stir-fried preserved radish with egg), steamed fish dipped in soya sauce and beansprouts fried with hard tofu are all good choices to round off a wholesome breakfast. For those looking for something more plain, bread and other bakery items are also available.

The selection of foods is bountiful and invariably tempting, but what makes them even more appealing is the pleasant social atmosphere of the food court, where groups of elderly men sit around tables sharing food and stories together. Occasionally, a younger member of a group shows respect to one of his elders by offering him a slice of steamed fish.

"We usually take turns to pay for the meal," says 85-year-old Sinchai Worawatphibul, a regular visitor to Suan Lum.

The open-air eating space is not only frequented by the elderly, however, its diner's being a mix of young people, families and seniors.

"Many customers come here regularly, and they usually have their own favourite dishes," says Wanna Chirarattana, a waitress at one of the khao tom stalls. She adds that the food sells like hot - in this case - khao tom on Saturdays and Sundays.

After satisfying their stomachs, customers can also do some shopping at nearby stalls. Fresh fruit and vegetables are on offer as well as preserved Chinese foods.

"The products sold here are quite expensive, I admit, but the quality is high," says Sinchai after buying two kilogrammes of oranges at a nearby fruit stall.

"I come here every week so it's a kind of habit to buy a bit of this and a bit of that for my children at home" adds the grandfather with a smile.

Lumphini Food Court is open every day from 4 to 11am.

Bangkok Post
Sunday March 18, 2007