Valley of the King

Horizons News - Thursday December 13, 2007

Valley of the King

Once reliant on opium crops and simple paddy fields, villagers in Doi Angkhang, Chiang Mai, have seen a thriving Royal Project transform their lives

PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT

Besides colourful gardens and plantations of temperate-climate fruits, the valley of Doi Angkhang, Chiang Mai, is filled with a warm atmosphere of loyalty to His Majesty the King.

Winter breezes and the temperature dropping down to nearly zero each year attracts tourists to this valley in Chiang Mai's Fang District, and while most visitors are fascinated by the colourful flowers and fruits, those who know about the Royal Project here will find more to admire.

His Majesty helped turned the area's opium fields into rich agricultural land, greatly improving the quality of life for local hilltribes. Established in 1969, Angkhang Royal Agricultural Station was the first agricultural station in the Royal Project. Its main objective is to conduct research and promote temperate climate fruit farming among hilltribes who used to rely on opium harvests.

"There is no more opium now," says Jamore Jana, 80, spiritual leader at the Lahu village of Ban Kobdong. "His Majesty came this way once and visited my humble hut. I offered him rice and chicken." Jamore smiles as he remembers his big day.

Decades ago, Kobdong Village was basically made up of rice paddies and opium fields, and convincing farmers to abandon their deadly-but-lucrative crops was not easy work. But His Majesty's visit to the village and subsequent making friends with the locals turned out to be a very wise solution.

"One day my friend, Jamoh, got drunk and wanted to give His Majesty his whisky - we couldn't stop him, and Jamoh managed to meet His Majesty. The King's friendliness made us all love him and listen to his advice."

Years later, the colourful opium valley at Kobdong has been replaced with strawberry farms. Besides changing the lives of the villagers, the Royal Project also made a great change to someone else.

Riam Singthorn, a teacher from Bangkok, gave up the comforts of life in the city and devoted herself to Kobdong kids more than 20 years ago. Having visited Kobdong in 1983, Riam left her downtown international school in the capital a year later. She remembers arriving on a particularly rainy day and quickly realising what a huge task lay ahead of her - none of the students had turned up for class. Instead they stayed at home to help out on the rice farms.

For two long weeks, none of the students showed up. Riam was feeling hugely demoralised and worthless as a teacher. Then, she caught a glimpse of a picture of the King and felt her resolve stiffen. She marched out of the school and headed down to the farms where the children were working. She left them white paper and colour pencils for drawing and came back to collect their work in the evening. After six months, she had gained the villagers' trust, and the students started trickling back to school.

"Teacher, I stay so far away. Could you take care of these children for me?" Those were the words His Majesty had for Riam during his visit in 1992. And for 24 years since, Riam has not even contemplated leaving her school and kids.

All the land around Angkhang is developed and utilised, no matter how close to the Burmese border. On the way to Nor Lae, the last village, there are many plantations located just metres from the border line.

Those who come to visit the rose farms may come across Yosapak Yang-Udee, chief of agricultural promotion at Angkhang Agricultural Station. Yosapak has been working in Angkhang since 1996, and the Royal Project has taught him to care and respect the local people.

"When I was recruited, I received a bag and was assigned to stay in the hilltribe village for several months. My job was to learn and judge what the local people really needed, and provide for them."

Although too modest to tell us himself, the villagers hold Yosapak in high regard. When fighting broke out between Burmese government troops and armed ethic resistance armies close to Nor Lae Village some five years ago, the villagers were forced to take cover. Yosapak risked his life to water the vegetables in the people's farms. After the fighting stopped, the vegetables were ready for sale at right time.

"For the staff at the project, the fight did not affect our lives much - we could still get our salaries at the end of the month. But for the farmers, these vegetables were their whole income. They take great risks in growing them and the fighting should not ruin their attempts," he noted. "I just follow His Majesty, working at my full capability."

The devotion and loyalty the people of Angkhang feel towards the King has spread further afield. Today, the Royal Project has eight agricultural stations and 36 development centres in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lamphun, Mae Hong Son and Phayao, supporting more than 85,000 people.

The "Follow in the footsteps of His Majesty" tour programme includes an excursion around the valley of Angkhang and a chance to meet people who devote themselves in accordance with His Majesty's guidance. Accommodation is available at Amari Nature Resort, Angkhang. For details, call 053-450-110

Bangkok Post