Oman on the gulf of beauty

Oman on the gulf of beauty

With verdant mountains and fjords among which the graceful dhows flit, this Middle East sultanate is full of surprises

Published on December 29, 2007

The Middle East isn't a dream destination for the average Thai tourist, probably because we know so little about it, but there is much natural beauty and fascinating history and places on offer.

And Oman has all of these.

Oman is at least known here for its oil and gas wealth - Thailand imports huge quantities of oil from the sultanate - and for its desert vistas. What is far less known is that it has lush green mountains criss-crossed by canyons, as well as deep fjords lapped by a crystal blue sea, along an Arabian Sea coast dotted by historic forts and beaches of white sand.

In southern Dhofar region is a striking landscape of wooded hills left green by the monsoon in July. At other times of year, the mountainous areas appear mostly dry and brown. If you dislike rain, visit Oman between November and February when the monsoon has moved on.

Dhofar is famous for producing frankincense, the aromatic gum resin that, when burned, emits a pleasant scent good for incense and fumigation. It was one of the most sought-after substances in the ancient times.

Frankincense of many types, and burners in various forms, are available at markets in the capital, Muscat, and in Salalah, Dhofar's main city.

Muscat has a place you must not miss, just as visitors to Bangkok have to see the Grand Palace. It's the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.

Sultan Qaboos Bin Said, the current 67-year-old ruler, had this glorious piece of modern Islamic architecture built as a gift to the nation to mark the 30th year of his reign in 2000. The sultan is credited for turning Oman from a sleepy backwater into a thriving nation.

The mosque's main prayer hall has a Persian carpet that, at 70 metres long and 60 metres wide, is believed to be the largest in the world. Visitors leave their shoes outside, as at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and must wear long sleeves and trousers or long skirts. Women must cover their hair.

Muscat is a port city, and a good way to view it from the sea is to take a trip in a dhow, the graceful, mostly teakwood sailboat long associated with Arab traders that can carry dozens of passengers.

To see how the people of Oman live, visit a souk, as the markets are called. One of Muscat's most interesting markets is the Mutrah Souq, just opposite the harbour. You can buy incense, perfumes, fabrics, clothes and jewellery.

Oman issued only 7,000 tourist visas last year, up from 2,000 in 2004. To get one you need a sponsor in Oman - a private business, such as a hotel, will do.

Tourism under-secretary Mohamed al Toobi says his country focuses on the quality of visitors rather than quantity. Most are from neighbouring countries, for whom entry visas are not required.

Oman's 170-plus hotels, Al Toobi points out, are fully booked almost year round, and plans are afoot to build more, and to expand the airports at Muscat and Salalah.

Revenue from the tourism industry accounts for less than 1 per cent of the country's gross domestic product, but improvements are under way as part of a policy to reduce Oman's dependence on oil, Al Toobi says.

Kittipong Thavevong

The Nation